Chili Oil

As best as I can remember, chili oil was my first introduction to "hot sauce". Specifically, Lee Kum Kee Chiu Chow Chili Oil, which occupied a permanent seat at my grandma's kitchen table.

It's a chili oil similar to what you'd find in most Dim Sum parlors. Sort of a mash of chilis and garlic suspended in oil, rather than the larger chili flakes and seeds you find in many other styles.

Since that's what I grew up eating, I remained faithful to good old Lee Kum Kee for many many years. And while it still holds a special place in my heart, I like to think that I've graduated to something better. After holding a post in a Chinese restaurant, and making the chili oil there, I now have a hard time buying the stuff considering how easy it is to make.

There, I would fill a wok dangerously full with oil and heat it to a dangerously high temperature. Then I would ladle the hot oil over a mixture of dried chili flakes and sesame seeds, all while holding my breath so as not to inhale the noxious fumes.

It's about as simple as it gets, and it's good on everything.

On any given day, I'll have two or three chili oils on hand. A simple chili oil like I just described, chili crunch (which I leave to the G.O.A.T. Lao Gan Ma), and a Szechuan chili oil that I'm going to share with all you lucky ducks today.

This chili oil does contain a few more ingredients, but the good news is that you can leave any number of them out and the result will still be great.

What we're doing in this recipe is infusing as much flavor into the oil itself, before it ever gets mixed with our hot chilis.

I like to infuse my oil for around an hour at a temperature close to 250F. You can do it for less or more time, you just want to make sure you're not burning any of the ingredients. The garlic and shallots will be the first to let you know if things are getting a little too hot.

Any kitchen thermometer can give you a hand here too, but I particularly like using a candy thermometer that I can keep in the pot the entire time. But if you don't have any, just look for gentle bubbles and not a raging boil.

I would encourage you to taste your oil infusion along the way. That will give you a good idea of when your oil is done (when it tastes good), and if you're heading towards burnt (when it tastes bad). Just be sure you dip a spoon in and let it cool before tasting it. 250F is very hot and will not feel good on your tongue.

Szechuan Chili Oil

Yield: 1 quart (which is a lot, so give some to your friends)

• 3T   Szechuan pepper corns
• 2-3inch   Ginger, halved
• 1ea     Shallot, halved
• 3clv    Garlic
• 1ea     Cinnamon stick
• 3ea     Star anise
• 1ea     Bay leaf
• 3c    Neutral cooking oil
• 1.5c    Chili flakes
• .25c   White sesame seeds
• 2t    Salt

1. Combine all but chili flakes, sesame seeds, and salt in a heavy-bottomed pot. Place the chili flakes, sesame seeds, and salt in a heat-proof container like a metal bowl or another pot.
2. Begin to heat the pot over medium heat until you reach 235-250F. If you don't have a thermometer, look for gentle bubbles rising from the ingredients in the oil.
3. Continue to cook for 30-90 minutes. Keep an eye on the garlic and shallot to make sure it doesn't start to get too dark and burnt.
4. Once your oil has been infused to your liking, ladle or pour it through a strainer directly over your chili, sesame, and salt mixture. Give it a stir and then allow it to cool at room temperature. The oil and the container it's in will be VERY hot.
5. Once it's cooled you can transfer your chili oil to jars. You can keep it at room temperature if you use it frequently, or store it in the fridge and it will last for months.

Ingredient Notes:

Oil
Any high-heat, neutral cooking oil will work. I tend to keep grapeseed on hand but you can use oils like safflower, canola, rice bran, and "vegetable oil".

Aromatics
You can use whatever aromatics you want to infuse your oil. Except, you probably want to use the Szechuan peppercorns if you're going to call it Szechuan chili oil. Or, skip the infusing process entirely and simply pour plain (250F) oil over your dried chili flakes for a very simple version.

Chili Flakes
Any chili flakes will work but I like these dried Thai chilis. They are HOT. I'm sure many people already have Italian dried chili flakes in their cupboards and that will work too. However, those flakes are often slightly larger and thicker, which can be a bit tough in the oil. If you have the time, take a trip to your local Asian market and choose anything off the shelf there.